Using a drywall texture roller cover to apply joint compound to the walls and ceilings creates less mess than blowing your mud on with a hopper gun and air compressor.

Even so, spraying as oppose to texture rolling is recommended when doing larger projects or you prefer to get the job done in as quick a manner as possible.

Furthermore, even though rolled on compound gives you a reasonably nice finish, spraying tends to result in a more consistent even and level surface.

With that said, a rolled texture can be unique to the tools your using and the person doing the application procedure.

Below you will find how to instructions for rolling plaster or drywall compound onto your walls, ceilings and other surfaces.


Every texture rolling process is unique. You will need to decide on which tools and materials to use in relation to the project at hand.


  • Paint roller with your preferred cover (for mud)
  • Extension pole (for the roller)
  • Large paint roller pan (tray)
  • Heavy duty electric drill
  • Drywall compound mixer paddle
  • Drop cloths, painters tape, painters plastic
  • 5 gallon bucket(s)
  • Top quality drywall mud (powder or pre-mix)
  • Primer and paint (as needed)
  • Paint roller/cover/tray (for priming and painting)
  • Assorted sizes of taping knifes, mud pan or hawk
  • Knockdown trowel or crows foot stomp brush (if needed)

Your local home improvement centre along with carries an assortment of items and products for rolling drywall compound (or plaster) onto your walls and ceilings.


Before you start splattering your surfaces be sure to cover all walls (when doing ceilings) and floors along with any furniture that can't be moved from the room your working in. Also, remove lighting fixtures (if needed), plug ins and light switch plates. Once the plates are removed tape off your exposed electrical outlets to protect them from wet drywall compound.

Drywall (sheetrock) that has cracks or seams in it needs to be taped and mudded (finished) prior to texture rolling.

Furthermore, fill any holes, ridges or divots that your walls or ceilings may have then sand the filled holes level to the surface (100 to 120 grit paper).

Follow up with a good quality primer. Your primer needs to be one that's recommended for the type of compound or mud being used.


Mix your compound according to the instructions on the compound bucket or box. Some compound is premixed and ready for rolling while other mud needs watering down ( start by adding 1/2 cup of water per gallon of mud ).

Place your drywall compound in an empty 5 gallon pail and mix it to a creamy consistency. To do so use a mud paddle and heavy duty electric drill to stir the mud.

Slowly add extra compound or water (if needed) to your mixture until its smooth and workable but not overly runny. You want your compound to be much like that of a milkshake or very thick paint.

Once the compound is ready pour it into your roller tray.


A texturing roller cover might extend the time it takes to do the job but tend to be less messy to use. Thicker napped roller cover could get the texturing done faster but might not create the same consistency as a texture roller.

I myself prefer to use a regular heavy piled roller cover when applying texture it can be messier than a texture roller though.

For those who are a little more adventurous there is also a more specialized type of decorative roller cover that's used with wet mud or paint.

You will need to decide on what work best for your particular situation.


You should either have a room or in the very least some old drywall board to practice your wall texturing on. Each specific roller cover can give your surface a unique look and feel. Some covers can also be used to roll paint on once your done using them to roll on the mud.

Regular type paint rollers should also be tested since nap thickness along with speed of rolling will give a different look. As an example, by using a slower roller motion your compound will have higher peaks in the mud.

Keep in mind too that each type of texture roller may also require a different thickness of mud to roll out properly.


Begin rolling your texture on in a corner of your room (ceiling or wall). You will need a fair bit of mud on your roller cover and it will have to be loaded often. Work in small sections 3' x 3" or 4"x 4" depending on your reach.

When doing walls roll the top (4x4 etc.) section then the bottom. Move over 4' and do it again. Start a new section and roll back into your last completed wet area.

If you work quickly and at a uniform speed you should be able to get the mud onto the wall following up by back rolling the entire area (as one large section) or wall. Back rolling is the process of re-rolling the wet compound (corner to corner) with your reasonably dry roller cover

Move along rolling and blending from one corner of a room to the next until the entire wall is done.

Follow the same process for a ceiling doing a four foot section moving down toward the far wall doing another 4" section. Work wet mud into wet mud until you get a consistent even look.

At first your drywall texture roller will leave a rough surface but each time you go over the wet mud (with less pressure) it will smooth out.

Don't leave any uneven or dry spots be sure everything is covered in compound. For a more erratic pattern, you can roll back over the wet mud at random angles as oppose to a strait up and down motion.
Rolling ceilings quickly will result in less mess while slower rolling (not so slow that the mud is drying) gives a different texture than faster rolling.


After rolling the mud on you can stomp the wet compound down with the help of a stomp or crows foot brush. Some people prefer to wait a bit before applying the stomping effect others will stomp the surface as soon as the wall (or ceiling) is mudded.

For more uniformity try different techniques such as twisting the brush as your placing it on the surface.

If your not liking the effect that your getting try re- applying mud then re-stomping it using a different effect.

You can now leave the stomped look the way it is, or if the compound is still wet try rolling it with a specialty roller or knock your mud peaks over using a broad knife or knock down tool.

What ever you do remember to test and practice before attempting your main walls and ceilings.


Before knocking down your drywall compound be sure to wait 10 or 15 minutes for the mud to dry. Also, dragging your knife at 25 to 45 degree angel to the wall (give or take) seems to give the best finish. Test and practice using different angels until you find what works for you.

As your dragging the knife wipe excess compound back into the drywall pan. Keep in mind too that a knock down look depends entirely on what the surface is like underneath.

Using a stomp brush technique is not necessary when doing a knock down. With that said, if your rolling the mud on, stomping with a crows foot brush and following up by knocking the mud down you will usually get the best results.

This knockdown and crows foot texturing page should help you out.


Keep in mind that texturing your walls or ceilings will hide certain surfaces imperfections yet at the same time enhance others. Rolled on mud can make a lot of imperfections disappear just don't expect more from the process than it can deliver. Furthermore it can be difficult, at times, to get a nice consistent look when rolling compound or plaster onto a surface

Once your texture is dry be sure to prime the wall or ceiling then apply two or more coats of quality paint. Flatter paint sheens are recommended for ceilings while eggshells work well for most walls. Semi-gloss can be used in more humid areas like a bathroom but tend to enhance any imperfections that the finished surface may have

Drywall texture roller covers work well to apply your product while decorative roller covers are great for giving your project a unique and distinctive look.

You can use a heavy piled roller cover if your going for a traditional texture just be sure to test different roller thickness to see which nap your going to prefer.

Powdered compound can tend to work best for texturing as powders are harder to the touch. Harder does make powdered muds more difficult to repair though.

Pre-mixed or ready mixed compounds will work fine if that's what you prefer. Just be sure to paint the surface once your mud has dried (at least 24 hours) If your intention is not to apply a coat of paint you'll need to use a specialized texturing compound.

Talk to your local home improvement retailer regarding tools, the process your going to use and products being applied.

From texture roller help to the drywall texture page

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