When splatter painting concrete keep in mind that if you wash concrete or the concrete is new, it has to be thoroughly dried (from 1 to 90 days or more) prior to painting.

Painters will sometimes tape down a small square of clear plastic (30cm x 30cm or 12"x12") onto the concrete to check for dampness.

I myself like to place the plastic on the floor in a number of different areas so as to get a good overall idea as to how dry the concrete is.

By inspecting the plastic over a number of days you will eventualy end up with no moisture on either the plastic or concrete floor.

If your floor is showing a moisture build up and you have your mind set on painting it right away, then renting a commercial dehumidifier should speed up the floors drying time.


Once your positive that the concrete is completely dry the floor will need to be cleaned. Dust, and debris must be totally removed. Washing the floor or using an acid etch may be required. Your local paint supplier, can explain acid etching if you feel the floor is dirty enough to require such a process (e.g., oil or grease build up).

In my many years of painting, I have come to the conclusion that concrete floors that have had any type of oil spilled on them (eg. a former vehicle repair shop), do not hold up well after painting. You will more than likely have to repaint areas that peel off on a regular bases.

A good cleaning, along with eons of time, is in most cases the only thing that will get rid of an oil or brake fluid residue.


Now that your floor is ready, I would likely apply a first coat (or two) of top quality primer. Concrete paint doesn't always require a primer but if your project involves a business or comercial setting then primer should help with the paints longevity.

Roll on the primer, let it dry, then pole sand the surface using 120 grit sandpaper. Vacuum and re-prime spots if needed. let your re-primed spots dry, then apply two coats of your base color (flat sheen), remembering to sand and vacuum between each coat.


Splattering is easy, even so, I would still practice the entire paint scheme (starting with the primer), on a couple cheap pieces of 4'x8' wood sheeting or hard board. Be sure to lay the sheeting on top of some drop cloths before throwing the splatter on.

To start the actual job, begin by taping painters plastic and or masking paper over top of any surfaces (eg. walls), that you don't want paint on.

As an example, I lets consider the base coat to be a dark purple. You may prefer to start with a lighter color. Maybe white. I find that painting from dark to light looks better but that's only a personal preference. When you do your practice sheets, you will have a better idea of what works for you.

Now that your base coat is dry, you can start splattering (with flat sheen paints). Use a quality stiff paint brush to start. You have options when splattering. Brush size depends on the look your going for. I like to use a 2 1/2” wide (6.5cm) sash brush along with a fast drizzle, you will need to decide what will work best for you.

Dip the brush into the paint (practice will show you whether you want a heavy or light dipping of paint). Draw your latex gloved hand over the bristles. Flex back the bristles, letting the brush bounce forward throwing the paint towards the target. You can also dip your brush, then flick or throw the paint off the brush by snapping your wrist.

I prefer while holding the can of paint in my hand to dip the brush into the paint then quickly drizzle it onto the floor.

If you find the paint is to thick, you might want to cut it with a product called paint glaze. Try not to slosh on to heavy a coating, as this can make it difficult for the paint to level out properly.

When splattering, I usually start at one end of the room and work my way out of a doorway. Let your first drippings of paint dry, then apply the next one (don't sand between coats). Keep applying each coat of splatter, until your done with the different colors that you have selected for the job at hand.

I myself like to progressively use less of each color, as I go from one tone to the next but that's me you may like a totaly different look.


After the splattering is completed and dry, you will need to apply two or three coats of a latex satin clear coat. I use a clear coat that is used for hardwood floors but can still be rolled or sprayed or moped onto a painted surface.

Ask your paint represenitive for the proper aplication device. Keep in mind that latex based clear coats tend to be better than alkyd (oil based) because alkyd tends to yellow over time.


Your floor is now done the more you let it cure before walking on it the longer it will last. A month if possible. I know that 30 days is in most cases out of the question but when it comes to durability time is the key.

Epoxy, as far as durability is concerned, is the best product to apply, even so, for a number of reasons, epoxy will not work well for a splattering project.

Below is an example a color layering, that one could use on half of a practice piece of sheeting or hard board. Be sure to change the color scheme and splattering process on the other half.

Keep practicing until you find what your looking for. Flip the sheet over once the paint is dry, if your not happy with your first two attempts try again.

  • 2 coats of primer.
  • Roll on 2 coats dark purple.
  • Splatter on the dark pink.
  • Splatter on the light purple.
  • Splatter on the light pink.
  • Now add small drips of light blue, yellow, and green.
  • Finely, apply three coats of satin sheen clear coat.

Splattering is easy but the more colors< you use the longer and drawn out your project will be, also try and use colors that work well together. Whether you use a latex or alkyd product, for either the splattering or clear coat, depends entirely on the environment your in.

I prefer latex but your paint store dealer, will be the best help, with advice regarding the amount of paint you will need, type of coating to apply and colors, supplies, tools or materials suited for the job at hand.


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