Drywall or sheetrock large hole repair can in some cases require an assortment of techniques,
repair techniques that are some what different than those for fixing small drywall holes.
small drywall hole repair
link, if you have repairs that are 12" or less in size (height or width).
Information related to fixing large sheetrock holes follow below.
WHAT WOULD BE A LARGE HOLE IN DRYWALL
Large drywall holes are usually 12" in size or larger (horizontally or vertically). When repairing large sections of drywall or sheetrock, the damaged board in most cases needs to be removed, replaced and re-mudded.
Interior walls in most cases have two by four studs that run vertically from ceiling to floor. These studs when properly installed can usualy be located every 16" or so behind the drywall board, and the drywall board is nailed or screwed to these studs.
Sheetrock large hole repair involves the process of cutting out rectangle or square chunks of damaged drywall board.
Also, keep in mind that the width of the replacement piece, needs to be cut so that the edges of the sheetrock board can be screwed into the wall studs.
TOOLS, PRODUCTS & MATERIALS TO USE
Depending on the size of the hole being fixed, there are an assortment of tools that one can use. The list and information that follows is for fixing holes that are 12'' in width or more.
- Drywall Saw or Drywall Router
- Measuring Tape
- 1" wide Utility Knife
- Drywall Knifes (Spatula)
- Foam Sanding Block (Medium Grit)
- Sanding Pole and Paper
- Hole Filler
- Piece of Drywall Board (cut to size)
- Drywall Screws (1 ½” long or so)
- Tray for Mud
- Lath (or sturdy strips of wood)
- Mesh Drywall Tape
- Drill/Bit/Drywall Screwdriver Head
- Screw Driver Having a Drywall Screwdriver Head
- Drywall (sheetrock) board Lift (Jack)
- Paintable Caulk/Gun
- Stud Finder
- Strait Edge (With liquid level)
- Flat Wrecking Bar
- Step Ladder
HOW TO REPAIR LARGE HOLES
Use a utility knife and drywall saw (if needed) to cut out your damaged piece in a square or rectangle shape. Have a pencil and strait edge (or plumb bob) on hand to draw your cut lines. Make your cuts larger than the damaged piece and try to remove only those drywall screws that need to be removed.
The square or rectangle chunk of sheetrock that you cut out needs, to be cut from the middle of one stud to the middle of another stud, otherwise you won't have anything to attach your repair piece to.
A hammer, flat wrecking bar, electric drill with a drywall screw head and of course your hands (wear gloves) work well to remove old damaged board.
With your damaged area removed, cut a new piece of drywall. The repair piece should be the same size as the piece you just cut out, then drill screws into the new repair piece and the wall studs. How many screws you use depends on the size of your repair, generally drywall screws are attached every 16” on walls and 12“ apart for ceilings.
TAPING AND MUDDING
taping and mudding
link to learn more about the process of taping and mudding drywall board.
REPLACING AN ENTIRE DRYWALL BOARD
Drywall repairs involving the replacement of a 4'x4' to 4'x8' or larger section will need you to use a wide sharp utility knife to remove the old sheet of drywall board. To do so, a stud finder will help to locate where the center of the studs are that are located behind the drywall board. With the strait edge (big long ruler) or a plumb bob and chalk line, mark a strait pencil line on the face of the board that is to be replaced from floor to ceiling where the studs are located behind the drywall board.
The only studs that need to be designated with a pencil mark or plumb line are the two outside edges of the board that the edges of your replacement sheet of drywall will be attached to, after the damaged drywall board is removed.
With your utility knife in hand, score the face of the damaged drywall board along your drawn pencil or plumb line. You will have to keep scoring the drywall surface a bit at a time until you have cut the board down to the 2"x4" stud below. Once you have made your first cut, move over and do the next cut.
Now, you may need a ladder to make the cut where the damaged board meets the ceiling. If you don't cut at the ceiling level you will likely tear out a chunk of ceiling when removing the damaged piece.
With your utility knife cuts made, cut out a hole with the drywall saw in the damaged piece if there isn‘t one in it already. The cut out is so you can use your hands to pull the old drywall away from the studs. Use a flat wrecking bar, hammer, and electric drill with a drywall screw head to remove screws, nails and old board.
After the old damaged board and drywall screws are removed make sure your knife cut lines are strait flush and even, then screw on your new piece of board. Screws should be 16" apart vertically and horizontally or spaced at 12" for ceiling repairs.
Remove any moldings like baseboard before you begin your large drywall repairs. You may find 1"x4" or 2"x4" hung horizontally behind the drywall board cut around them if needed.
Do not cut into studs with electric tools and keep in mind that there are electrical wires and plumbing behind drywall board (be careful). Your drywall saw and utility knife cuts need to be flush, even, level and clean of debris.
Be sure all screws and nails are removed from the area you will be repairing. Drywall board should have little or no space between board that is butted up against each other. The longest sides of drywall board has beveled edges, when you don’t have a beveled edge it is called a but joint and usually require wide swathes of mud (16" or more) to look flat and even.
In some cases you may want to remove the beveled edge where your repair piece meets the popcorn ceiling for example, then apply paintable caulking as oppose to drywall mud which would wreck any texture your ceiling may have.
Talk to your local home improvement center regarding the type of mud to use along with tools, rental equipment and other materials that you may need for the project being done.
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