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HOW TO PUT UP SHEETROCK
Knowing how to put up Sheetrock, is one of the most important home remodeling skills to learn.
Sheetrock, also known as drywall or gypsum board, generally works best in commercial and residential areas that have low humidity.Rooms with higher humidity or moisture issues require a product called “blue” or “cement board.”
Sheetrock is also the best choice as a wall covering due to its cost, ease of application, and the speed in whitch it can be put up.
Sheetrocks disadvantage though, is that it's not as durable as plaster or decorative wallboard.
Information that follows, includes the tools you will need and best process to follow, while learning how to put up Sheetrock.
If your looking for Sheetrock application advice pertaining to ceilings, use this boarding a ceiling link to help get the job done.
Once you've learned how to put up Sheetrock, the
finishing drywall
page will guide you through the ins and outs of taping and troweling on some mud.
SHEETROCKING TOOLS YOU MIGHT NEED
Before you begin to put up Sheetrock, heres a list of tools you might find useful. Each job is different, so some of the tools mentioned might not be needed for your particular project.
Ladders.
Board lifters.
Drywall cutters (electric and non electric saws, router etc.).
Measuring tape.
Metal Drywall T square & strait edge.
2 Flat bars and small wood blocks.
Variable Speed Electric Drill (cordless with an extra battery).
Dimpler (special driver for drywall screws) or drywall drill.
Drywall hammer.
Screwdriver (drywall screw size).
Pencil.
Heavy duty utility knife.
Scaffolding.
Planks.
2' or 4' Level.
Stud finder.
Apron for screws or nails.
MATERIALS
You will need either Sheetrock screws and a drill or nails and a hammer, along with the type of Sheetrock or blue board needed for the job at hand. Sheetrock screws, nails, and the Sheetrock itself comes in different sizes. Talk to your local home improvement sales representative, regarding the type of materials you will need, for your specific project.
KEEP IN MIND
Before you start to put up Sheetrock, make sure the walls behind your drywall are properly insulated, has a vapor barrier (if needed), and the electrical, plumbing and building itself is up to snuff. You don't want to be wasting time re-boarding a new wall, because your roof shingles leaked.
BEFORE YOU BEGIN
With your materials selected, the room prepped and cleaned, and tools ready to go, your set to begin your putting up Sheetrock project.
To keep your job as easy as possible, it might be a good idea to ask someone to give you a hand. Sheetrock can be awkward and heavy, even when using a mechanical drywall jack.
LETS BEGIN TO PUT UP SHEETROCK
You can use screws and a drill or nails and a hammer to attach your Sheetrock. I prefer screws, so I refer to screws below. If you would rather use a hammer and nails, that's perfectly fine. Just replace the word drill for hammer and screws for nails. Also, remember when hammering, you want the head of the hammer to make a slight cupped indentation into the Sheetrock, so that the mud has somewhere to go.
Sheetrock has a front and back, be sure to hang it the right way around. Where I live, the white side is the front side. If your unsure, ask your Sheetrock supplier.
Starting in the corner of a room, is the best place to begin your Sheetrocking job. Your Sheetrock needs to be flush against the wall studs and run in a horizontal fashion. With your helpers assistance and the use of a couple of flat bars, (turned the correct way around) sitting on blocks of wood, (a few feet apart) step on the flat bars to lift the drywall board about a half an inch off the floor.
You can purchase a board lifter if you like, or use some type of 1/2” inch spacer. Just make sure your spacer doesn't get stuck between the floor and the edge of the Sheetrock. Place your level on the top edge of the drywall board.
Once the Sheetrock is level and with your drill and screws in hand, start in the middle of the board, 1 to 1 1/2” down from the boards top edge. You want the screw to be drilled into the boards tapered edge, that way the edge screws will be mudded over when the seems are taped. Both the screws, or if your using nails, need to just pierce the boards surface, without ripping the boards paper and going to deep into the board.
To insure a strait line, you might want to use a level or T square and pencil to lightly draw vertical reference lines, onto the Sheetrock that lines up with the center of the wall studs.
Place the succeeding screw, below the first into the center of the drywall board. Your next screw should be 1 to 1 1/2” up from the of the floor and like the top screw, drilled into the tapered edge. Screw one more screw into the Sheetrock, half way between the middle screw and the top edge screw. Do the same between the bottom edge screw and middle screw. You should now have five screws in your Sheetrock, the screws should be evenly spaced, in a strait vertical line and securely attached to the middle of the studs behind the drywall.
Drywall screws should be 16” apart, horizontally and vertically but I like to add those couple extra screws just to be on the safe side. Once your first drywall board is up, do the same to the next one. Keep moving around the bottom part of your room until your done. Sheetrock boards should but up tight to each other, you don't need a gap between the two boards.
Once you have the bottom sheetrocking done, move onto the top half. Depending on how high your walls are, you might need to cut a board, so that it fits up to the ceiling or add an extra sheet for the same reason. Now, screw the Sheetrock on, in the same fashion as you did the bottom drywall boards.
CUTTING SHEETROCK
With the help of your measuring tape, T square and pencil, mark off and cut out plug and light switch holes. Talk to your local Sheetrock supplier regarding the best tool to do the cutting. You can choose either the non electrical saw type Sheetrock cutter or electric router kind.
BUT JOINTS
Sheetrock has both tapered and non tapered edges. Non tapered edges, that are up against each other are called but joints. Whenever possible have non tapered edges or but joints meet in a corner. But joints are the most difficult type of seem to tape. It's not possible, in most rooms to avoid a but joint, even so, try to a keep them to a minimum. Use the longest Sheetrock you can find and try if you can, to situate the but joints below a window or above a door.
SHEETROCKING OVER AN OLD SURFACE
Sometimes, older walls can't be saved due to unevenness or scratches, holes and gouges. With the help of a good stud finder, pencil, strait edge and tape measurer, you should be able to draw some reference lines for your screws, so as to apply your new Sheetrock. Wall studs are suppose to be at 16" centers but they don't always end up that way, that's why you will need the stud finder.
Old plaster can tend to be very difficult to screw into, with regular drywall screws. Some Sheetrock suppliers, sell a type of screw that is made to attach itself securely to plaster. You can also drill holes through the plaster with a masonry bit, then use regular Sheetrock screws. Using drywall glue is another alternative.
When I'm dealing with old Sheetrock or plaster walls, removing the drywall boarding, plaster and lath, then re-applying new drywall or plaster tends to works the best.
SUMMARY
If your putting up Sheetrock in a home that has done its settling, I cut the Sheetrock so that it buts up nice and tight to itself in the corners, then I use a couple coats of high quality painters caulk, as opposed to taping and mudding the corners.
I have yet to have a problem doing my corners this way. Keep in mind though that caulking the corners instead of taping them is not recommended. I take a chance every time I do corners in the way that I have suggested. Even so, caulking is way faster than taping a corner.
You can buy thinner Sheetrock which is made specifically to go around rounded walls (1/4" thick). Thinner board can be difficult to find in your area, breaks easily, and shows demarcations from the wall behind it. Be sure to talk to your local Sheetrock supplier regarding the proper use of thinner drywall and how to apply it.
HOME
Looking for home improvement solutions other than putting up Sheetrock.
Click on the above home link, you should be able to find what your looking for. If I have missed something or you would like to ask a question e-mail me.
Your address will be held in the strictest confidence. I will also try and answer you in as prompt a manner as possible.
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