When hanging drywall, gypsum, sheetrock or drywall are the most common names for the type of board used to finish interior walls.

The preference for hanging drywall as oppose to other techniques is due to drywall being done quickly, requires less skills than applying plaster and has an appealing finish once a room has been mudded, primed and painted.

Below you will find how to help and information regarding the process of attaching drywall or sheetrock boarding to your interior walls.

If on the other hand your screwing drywall sheets to your ceiling then use this boarding a ceiling.

Once you have finished your boarding projects the finishing drywall page will help with getting those drywall seams taped and mudded.


Before you begin your hanging drywall project here's a list of tools you might find helpful.

  • Ladders
  • Board lift
  • Drywall cutters (electric and non electric saws, router etc.)
  • Measuring tape
  • Metal Drywall T square
  • 2 Flat bars
  • Variable Speed Electric Drill (cordless with an extra battery)
  • Dimpler ( special driver for drywall screws)
  • Hammer
  • Screwdriver (drywall screw size)
  • Pencil
  • Heavy duty utility knife
  • Scaffolding
  • Planks
  • 2' or 4' Level
  • Stud Finder

Hardware stores and Home improvement centers sell drywall screws that come in an assortment of lengths. Drywall board also varies in length and width. Thickness is another decision that you will need to make.

Your local home improvement sales representative will assist you with selecting the materials you'll need for the process of hanging drywall.

Outside walls require the proper insulation, be sure your walls have a vapor barrier and the wall are insulated according to your local government code before you begin hanging drywall.

A local home improvement centers sales representative will help with advice regarding the proper insulation for your home.

Once you have selected the length and thickness of drywall you will be using on your walls and tools for the project then your ready to hang the board.

One suggestion to keep in mind, when it comes to drywalling extra hands make lighter work. So, If you can find some helpers I would recommend doing so.

Drywall board does have a front and back so be sure to attach it in the correct fashion. The back is usually gray in color while the front is white, at least that’s the way it is where I live. You might want to check with the store you purchased your drywall from before you hang it.

To begin your wall boarding project, start in the corner of a room. Place the board flat against the wall long ways running horizontally. Now with the assistance of your helpers and the two flat bars (situated a couple feet apart from each other) placed at the edge of the drywall board on the floor lift the board about a half an inch from the floor.

Place a small stick under the bar if needed so as to get the proper leverage. Also be sure the bar is turned the proper way to lift things. With your level in hand along with the drill and your drywall screws near by stand at the center of the board then insure the drywall board is level then screw a screw through the drywall into a wall stud an inch and a half or so down from the boards top edge.

Proceed in a strait line down to the middle of the board and screw in another screw. Keeping the strait line, screw in another screw an inch and a half up from the edge of the drywall board where it's closest to the floor.

Be sure not to brake the drywall boards paper yet insure the screw head is slightly below the surface of the drywall otherwise when you mud over the screw it will poke through.

Also, you might want to use a pencil and a drywall T square to lightly mark strait lines onto the surface of the drywall board to indicate a line where the screws will go into the middle of a wall stud. When hanging drywall onto walls, the screws are usually 16" apart from each other.

When doing a corner of a room you should have three screws in a strait line from top to bottom 16" apart from each other.

One screw should be at the top an inch to an inch and a half in front the drywall boards edges, (be sure the screw is going into a stud) the next screw would be the same distance in from the edge at the middle of the board, 16" down from the first screw and finally, the last screw is at the bottom of the drywall board, an inch, to an inch and a half up from the floor.

A 4'x8' sheet of drywall, when secured to the wall studs should have 4 vertical lines of screws, with 3 screws in each line and the screws evenly spaced at 16" apart from each other (give or take an inch).

Once you have the first board up, move onto the next board securing it in the same way as the first. Move around the room until the bottom half of the room is done.

If you have plug ins, light switches or areas to board that an uncut sheet of board won't cover, refer to doing electrical cut outs below or cutting drywall board if needed. Drywall board should but up tight to each other. No gap is needed when placing them on top or beside one another.

With the bottom done, proceed to doing the top. Depending on how high or wide your walls are, you may need to cut a board to fit or add a longer sheet of drywall board to finish the room. Even so, finish the room in the same fashion as the bottom, keep the screws in a strait line and try to have each screw the same distance from the floor or ceiling spaced 16" apart from each other.

When cutting drywall board you will need to insure that the board is cut so that it can be secured at a wall stud. If two sheets are butting up against each other, one of those sheets may need to be cut so that both sheets can be secured at each sheets edge with screws using the same stud. All edges of each sheet of sheetrock must be screwed into a wall stud.

With a tape measure, drywall T square and pencil, mark where you will need to cut out electrical boxes. Economical Non electrical and more expensive electrical tools can be used to do the cut outs. Talk to your local home improvement center or hardware store regarding the type of saw that will work best for you.

Drywall is tapered on the longest sides of a drywall sheet. The taper is there so that the mud has somewhere to go when finishing the drywall. A But Joint is where the edge of two boards touch each other and those edges are not tapered. Whenever possible have tapered edges touching each other and a non tapered edge meeting in a corner.

If you do need to have a but joint, keep in mind that the joint can be very difficult to hide without a certain amount of sheet rocking skills. With that said, try and have any but joint you might require situated somewhere where your won't be constantly looking at it.

Also, the but joint should be as small as possible so below a window or above a door is probably best when hanging drywall with a but joint..

Wall studs are usually spaced 16" apart (that's why the screws are 16" apart) if you can't see where the studs are, do to drywalling over an old plastered or an already dry walled wall etc. you might want to use a stud finder to assist you.

Plaster can be very difficult to screw through. Some home improvement centers or drywall suppliers sell a type of screw that will easily go through the drywall board, past the plaster and into the wall studs.

Other alternatives for hanging drywall over plaster is to drill pilot holes with an electric hand drill and masonry bit into the wall stud then use a regular drywall screw (one that's larger than the drill bit). Another alternative is to purchase drywall glue from a drywall supplier. Drywall glue is used to secure a drywall board to a wall surface.


When I board and mud (float) a room I don't mud the corners or where the drywall board meets the ceiling, instead I cut the taper off of the drywall board where the drywall board meets at the corners and ceilings. I then use two coats high quality caulk to finish the corners of a room. By doing this when I'm drywalling a room, I will have very few seams to mud.

Keep in mind that caulking is not the recommended way to finish corners. Even so, I have yet to have a problem caulking a corner as oppose to mudding it.

If you do decide to caulk at the ceilings and in the corners where the drywall buts up against itself the gap between drywall sheets needs to be reasonably tight. Having some practice with a caulking gun will also help with your corner caulking project.

If your concerned whether to mud your corners or caulk them after hanging drywall board, I would recommend going with the recommended way of finishing a corner, which is by using drywall tape and mud.

Thinner drywall board (1/4" thick) can be used to go around rounded walls but thinner board might be a little more difficult to find in your area. Thinner drywall also breaks easier and will show ripples if the surface being covered has bumps or deviations in it.

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